Several – Scarasta, Northton, Mhor and Iar – get a perfect 10, as do the vast sands of Luskentrye, liquid as the sea and shimmering silver, gold and buttercup yellow.
Another beach, Niosaboist, wide but narrow and gazing deep into the hills, gets a Spinal Tap 11.
Across the bay, in the hamlet of Luskentyre, I pick out a tiny cemetery perched beautifully above the dunes.
I pick out one of a pair of golden eagles that nest here.From the ground up, the colour scheme is sensational: strips of green, yellow, blue and the metallic shades of the brooding Harris hills.Piping oystercatchers and lapwings engaged in spiralling aerial battles criss-cross this canvas. Waymarkers cross the moorland above the sea but instead I drop down to the coast and start to give the beaches marks out of ten.I drop down to an idyllic bay where for a short while I follow quiet roads past the minutiae of life, lines of washing drying outside remote homesteads.A highlight among these highlights is the impossibly gorgeous Loch Phlocrapoil, which is filled with sponge-like islets.